Food in Paris: A Practical Guide
It's easy to get Paris wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I tried to order a croissant at a café on Rue de Rivoli, only to be handed a sad, overpriced pastry that tasted like cardboard. The French don't do "tourist food," and that's the first thing most visitors get wrong—they expect the same overpriced, mediocre dishes they've seen in photos, not the real thing. The truth is, Parisian food is about simplicity, quality, and the right place at the right time. After that croissant disaster, I decided to do my homework. I found a tiny bistro tucked away on Rue des Martyrs, a street that feels like a secret even to locals. Le Comptoir du Relais is a legendary spot for lunch, but I went for dinner on a quiet Tuesday night. The menu is handwritten on a chalkboard, and the owner, a woman with a kind smile and a head full of silver hair, greeted me like an old friend. I ordered the steak frites—$22 for a thick cut of beef with crispy fries ...